Tree planting and watering: creating a tree moat
Planting the tree
- Choose the right location. Make sure the tree has enough space for its mature size, gets the right amount of sunlight, and suits your soil conditions.
- Dig the hole. Make it at least 12 inches wider than the root ball, but no deeper than the root ball is tall. The top of the root flare (where the roots spread from the trunk) should sit 2–4 inches above grade to allow the root ball to settle.
- Position the tree. Place it carefully in the hole and adjust it so it stands straight. Backfill halfway with the original soil, water lightly to settle it, then finish filling.
Creating a tree moat
A tree moat holds water around the root zone for deep, slow soaking. That encourages deep root growth and improves drought resistance.
- After planting and backfilling, use extra soil to form a circular berm (a raised ring) around the tree.
- Size: the moat should sit about 2–3 feet from the trunk in all directions, or the size of the hole you dug. The berm should be 4–6 inches high and 6–8 inches wide so it holds water without collapsing.
- Shape: make the moat like a shallow bowl, higher at the edges and lower toward the tree.
- Mulch (optional): add a 2–4 inch layer of mulch inside the moat, keeping it 3–6 inches away from the trunk to prevent rot.
Watering the tree using the moat
Initial watering
Fill the moat slowly with water right after planting and let it soak in completely. Repeat once or twice, depending on how fast your soil absorbs it.
Watering schedule
| When | How often |
|---|---|
| First 1–2 weeks | Daily or every other day, depending on temperature and drainage |
| Weeks 3–12 | 1–2 times per week |
| Beyond 3 months | Deeply every 2–4 weeks for the first 1–2 years |
Adjust for the weather. Rainfall alone is not enough moisture for newly planted trees.
How much water
Maintaining the moat
- Inspect regularly. Rain or irrigation can erode the berm over time. Rebuild it as needed.
- Adjust as the tree grows. Widen the moat gradually as the roots spread outward.
- Adjust for the seasons. Water less in cooler months and more during droughts or heat waves.
Planting guide
Preparation
Plant as soon as you can. If there's a delay, keep plants in a shady, wind-protected spot and keep the roots moist. Always handle plants by the container or root ball, never by the stems or leaves.
Planting by container type
Balled and burlap
Plant with the burlap, rope and wire basket intact. Fill around the ball with a good soil mix up to three-quarters, then water thoroughly. Untie strings from the trunk and fold the burlap down out of sight. You can leave the string and burlap intact for the first season, but they must be cut and removed in the second.
Fibre pots
Leave the pot on. Break off the rim and make three cuts from the bottom halfway up. Don't remove the pot bottom; roots will grow through it naturally.
Plastic pots
Water thoroughly before planting. If the plant won't slide out, make two vertical cuts and peel the pot away. Gently loosen the roots and score any matted roots to encourage outward growth.
Perennials and annuals
Prepare the bed with 3–6 inches of peat moss worked into 3–12 inches of soil, and add a general-purpose flowering fertilizer. Planting individually? Prepare each hole the same way. Apply a granular slow-release fertilizer for the season.
3 easy steps to success
- Plant the tree or shrub no deeper than it grew at the nursery.
- Make sure drainage is good, especially in clay soil, by improving the soil before planting.
- Dig a hole at least 12 inches larger than the root ball on all sides so you can enrich the soil.
Mulching
Mulch holds moisture, cuts down on weeds, and keeps roots cool in summer and insulated in winter. Add a layer after planting for easier upkeep and healthier plants.
Watering
Plants in plastic pots dry out quickly. Deep watering helps roots grow deeper and become drought-resistant. Water the root zone so the water soaks in about 12 inches deep.
When watering several plants, water them all, then go round again so the water reaches the deep roots. Check the soil around the root ball often.
Helpful tips
- Use a high-phosphorus "transplanter" fertilizer when transplanting or planting trees and shrubs.
- Water evergreens thoroughly in the fall before freeze-up. This prevents wind damage over winter.
- Divert downspouts and sprinklers away from planting areas.
- Water only when the soil feels dry 2–3 inches down, and keep this up until the plant is established.
- Ideal soil mix: 50% soil, 25% peat moss, 25% manure.