Description:
Culture Notes
Sumac grows well on dry, sandy soils in full sun to part shade and requires little care. It is best used as a component of a shrub border, where its deciduous habit adds interest to an evergreen landscape. This makes a good roadside plant due to its drought tolerance and seasonal interest. The tiny, greenish-yellow flowers, borne in compact, terminal panicles, are followed by showy red clusters of berries on female plants which persist into the winter and attract wildlife.
This spreading plant is often used as a tall ground cover, especially on steep banks. The plant is hardy as far north as USDA hardiness zone 3 and can grow in sun or partial shade. The main ornamental feature is the orange to red fall color. The female plants will bear red fruits but the flowers that precede them are insignificant.
Planting and establishing shrubs
The most common cause of young plant failure is planting too deep. Plant the root ball no deeper than it was in the nursery. In most instances, the root flare zone (point where the top-most root in the root ball originates from the trunk) should be located just above the landscape soil surface. Sometimes plants come from the nursery with soil over the root flare. If there is soil over this area, scrape it off. The planting hole should be at least twice the width of the root ball, preferably wider. In all but exceptional circumstances where the soil is very poor, there is no need to incorporate anything into the backfill soil except the loosened soil that came out of the planting hole. Never place ANY soil over the root ball. If a row or grouping of plants is to be installed, excavating or loosening the soil in the entire bed and incorporating organic matter enhances root growth and establishment rate.
Weed suppression during establishment is essential. Apply a 3-inch thick layer of mulch around the plant to help control weed growth. Keep it at least 10 inches from the trunk. If you apply it over the root ball, apply only a one or two inch layer. This allows rainwater and air to easily enter the root ball and keeps the trunk dry. Placing mulch against the trunk or applying too thick a layer above the root ball can kill the plant by oxygen starvation, death of bark, stem and root diseases, prevention of hardening off for winter, vole and other rodent damage to the trunk, keeping soil too wet, or repelling water. Regular irrigation through the first growing season after planting encourages rapid root growth, which is essential for quick plant establishment.
Pests, Diseases and Damaging Agents
Pests: Aphids suck plant juices and can be controlled with sprays of rotenone. Scales are controlled with dormant oil applied in the spring before plants begin to grow.
Diseases: Several fungi cause cankers leading to dieback. Fusarium wilt infects roots, causing the leaves to droop and wilt. Leaf spot causes gray spots with purplish margins that merge, giving the leaves a scorched appearance. Various genera of powdery mildew forms a white coating on the leaves. Verticillium wilt causes wilting of individual stems, followed by death of the foliage.
