Culture Notes
Mulberry should be grown in full sun or partial shade on any soil. The species has naturalized in many parts of the world, but this cultivar is fruitless. Although it is tolerant of air pollution and dry conditions, the tree will perform its best on moist soils.  Some leaves drop in summer heat unless irrigated. The wood is considered ring porous.
Maintain adequate mulch area
Clear all turf away from beneath the branches and mulch to the drip line, especially on young trees, to reduce competition with turf and weeds. This will allow roots to become well established and keep plants healthier. Prune the tree so trunks and branches will not rub each other. Remove some secondary branches on main branches with included bark. This reduces the likelihood of the main branch splitting from the tree later when it has grown to become an important part of the landscape. Locate the tree properly, taking into account the ultimate size, since the tree looks best if it is not pruned to control size. The tree can enhance any landscape with its delightful spring flush of foliage. It can be the centerpiece of your landscape if properly located.
Tree establishment specifications
Choose good quality trees for planting. The most common cause of young tree failure is planting too deep. In most instances, the point where the top-most root in the root ball originates from the trunk (referred to as the root flare zone or root collar) should be located just above the soil surface. You may have to dig into the root ball to find the root flare. If there is nursery soil over this area, scrape it off. Never place ANY soil over the root ball. The planting hole should be at least twice the width of the root ball, preferably wider because roots grow best in loose soil. In all but exceptional circumstances where the soil is very poor, extensive research clearly shows that there is no need to incorporate any amendments into the backfill soil. Simply use the loosened soil that came out of the planting hole. Simply planting with the topmost portion of the root ball slightly higher than the surrounding soil might still install the tree too deep - be sure to locate the root flare.
Weed suppression during establishment is essential. Apply a 3-inch thick layer of mulch to at least a six-foot diameter circle around the tree. This area should be at least two feet in diameter for each inch of tree trunk diameter and maintained during the establishment period. Apply a thinner layer of mulch directly over the root ball but keep it at least 10 inches from the trunk. This allows rainwater, irrigation and air to easily enter the root ball and keeps the trunk dry. Placing mulch against the trunk and applying too thick a layer above the root ball can kill the plant by oxygen starvation, death of bark, stem and root diseases, prevention of hardening off for winter, vole and other rodent damage to the trunk, keeping soil too wet, or repelling water.
Regular irrigation after planting encourages rapid root growth that is essential for tree establishment. Trees provided with regular irrigation through the first growing season after transplanting require about 3 months (hardiness zones 9-11), 6 months (hardiness zones 7-8), or one year or more (hardiness zones 2-6) per inch of trunk diameter to fully establish roots in the landscape soil. Trees in desert climates may take longer to establish. Trees that are under-irrigated during this establishment period (and most trees are) often require additional time to establish because roots grow more slowly.  Be prepared to irrigate through the entire establishment period, especially during periods of drought.
Irrigation also helps maintain and encourage the desirable dominant leader in the tree canopy on large-maturing trees. Instead of a dominant leader, trees that are under-irrigated during the establishment period often develop undesirable, low, co-dominant stems and double leaders that can split from the tree later.
Unlike established plants, which do best with deep, infrequent irrigation, research clearly shows that recently transplanted trees and shrubs establish quickest with light, frequent irrigation. For trees planted in spring or summer, provide one (cooler hardiness zones) to three irrigations (warmer hardiness zones) each week during the first few months after planting. Daily irrigation in the warmest hardiness zones provides the quickest establishment. Following the initial few months of frequent irrigation, provide weekly irrigation until plants are fully established. With every irrigation, apply one (cool climates) to two (warm climates) gallons of water per inch trunk diameter (e.g. 2 to 4 gallons for a 2-inch tree) over the root ball only. In most landscapes that receive more than 30 inches of rain or irrigation annually, if the mulch area is maintained weed-free, irrigation does not need to be applied outside of the root ball. Never add water if the root ball is saturated.
In cooler hardiness zones, in all but the driest years, irrigation of spring- and summer-planted trees usually can be discontinued once fall color has begun. Irrigation of fall planted trees, however, should be continued until foliage has dropped from the deciduous trees in the region. In warmer climates, irrigate fall-and winter-planted trees as described for the spring- and summer-planted trees.
In drier, desert climates there is benefit to be gained from applying additional irrigation outside of the root ball area. This is best done by making a large diameter berm four to six inches high, then filling it with water so it percolates into the soil. For the first two years, irrigate twice each week through the spring, once per week in summer provided monsoons arrive, and twice each week again in fall if it remains warm. Taper off watering to once or twice each month in winter and resume twice weekly next spring. For years three to five, water twice per month in spring, summer, and fall and once or twice per month in winter. During years five through seven, water once every three weeks in warm weather and once every six weeks in winter. After this, the drought-tolerant desert trees should be able to survive on natural rainfall.
Trees with good, strong structure need no pruning at planting, except to remove broken twigs. Do not remove branches to compensate for root loss - research has shown that this can be detrimental to establishment.
Pests, Diseases and Damaging Agents
Pests:Â Scale and mites are the biggest problems. Ambrosia beetle can attack even healthy trees; they tend to attack as trees emerge from dormancy. Asian longhorn beetle, a new pest in certain sections of the US since 1996, attacks and kills mulberry. Lacebugs can cause leaf stippling, bronzing and defoliation.
Diseases:  Leaf spot, bacterial blight, powdery mildew, and cankers can be troublesome.  Bacterial leaf scorch causes leaf scorch, premature browning, and gradual decline of trees. There is often a yellow line or hallow separating the scorched tissue from green tissue. This disease can be devastating, especially if a street or property is planted in a monoculture. Infection probably spreads by root grafts and certainly by leafhoppers, spittlebugs and sharpshooters. Pruning tools are not likely spread the disease. Neither fertilization nor pruning have any effect on treatment of the disease. There may be chemical treatment that can reduce symptoms but nothing will cure an infected tree. Bacterial leaf scorch can kill trees in several years.
This genus is sensitive to sulfur dioxide air pollution. Sources of sulfur dioxide air pollution include fossil fuel combustion, smelting and refining of ores. Damage usually is confined to urban areas near power stations. Acute injury typically occurs when plants are exposed to high concentrations for a short period. In deciduous plants, tissue between veins on the upper and lower side of the leaf turns yellow, white or tan-brown. The veins usually remain green. In conifers, the tips of needles turn reddish-brown. As damage accrues, the discoloration progresses toward the base of the needle. Deciduous plants exposed to low concentrations of sulfur dioxide for long periods of time (chronic exposure) show a general chlorosis or yellowing of the foliage. Needles on conifers exposed to chronic sulfur dioxide turn yellow and drop from the tree prematurely. If you suspect sulfur dioxide has injured this plant, look in the neighborhood for blackberry, raspberry, pumpkin, or squash plants. These serve as indicator plants for sulfur dioxide air pollution damage because they are very sensitive to it. Other sensitive plants include apple, birch, white pine, poplar, blue spruce and zinnia. Plants that resist injury include box-elder, dogwood, black gum, juniper, maple, spruce and sycamore.
This plant is sensitive to damage from ozone air pollution. Damage can occur in urban or rural areas because ozone can travel long distances away from where it is formed. Typical symptoms on deciduous trees are a flecking or stippling only on the upper side of the foliage between large veins. The small spots or flecks are white, tan or orange-red. Spots or flecks from one-eighth to one-quarter inch long appear on needles of sensitive conifers. Yellow bands that girdle the needle may form, eventually causing the tips of the needles to die and/or needles to drop from the plant. If you suspect ozone is causing damage on this plant, locate White Pines (Pinus strobus) in the area to see if they are damaged. White Pines are very sensitive to ozone damage and can serve as indicators of the presence of ozone in concentrations high enough to cause plant damage.Â